THEMA: Self-Drive: The Big Eigth
19 Jan 2011 07:15 #170373
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  • Pinback am 19 Jan 2011 07:15
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Hallo,

ich hatte im Vorfeld ein paar wertvolle Tips für meinen Self-drive hier im Forum bekommen, ich poste jetzt einen Bericht über die Reise, vielleicht profitiert der eine oder andre davon. Auf Englisch, da er per PN noch an Freunde und Bekannte geht.

Enjoy
P.
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19 Jan 2011 07:22 #170374
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Dec. 25th was not Lufthansas finest hour, maintenance and de-icing problems kept us on the FRA-taxiway for half the day. But surprisingly, Ethiopian AL had their prop plane waiting for us in Addis, so we arrived in Arusha at dawn.
At Fortes Car Hire we were shown our Landcruiser: a rather battered affair, 230 TKm on the meter, slick tires. The guys were very friendly but made it clear that an exchange was no option as they needed their newer vehicles for their regular year-end safari business. At least all 6 tires were replaced in a snap for something more reasonable.
We headed off to the Usambaras first, to Lushotos cliffs and the Amani rainforest, with T4A you can drive and hike on your own.
Down in Morogoro we were informed that torrential rains had all but ruined the “road” thru the Uluguru-Mountains, so we ditched our plans for the Selous (made easier when we heard of the USD 100 pP/pD-tariffs)
Continued to Mikumi NP, the only person on the campsite being a Malaria Research expat staying there with his family for a week. It’s a nice park, if you go into the hills beyond the Hippo pool you rarely see another vehicle.
In the Udzungwa NP we were invited by the WWF office to their New Years Eve Party, with the local girls really dressed to kill. Went up the next day to Sanje Falls, again all alone, except the compulsory guide, who was able to track the rare crested mangabey monkey. Beautiful rainforest and waters, sometimes looking like a setting for the next “King-Kong” flick. The area is so far not discovered by the international trekking circus - wished we had the time for an overnighter.
Via Iringa into Ruaha – and its really like Africa 100 years ago. On the campsite just another expat, this time from the Norwegian embassy. Rarely another car on the game drives for the next days, lions and hyena in proximity to the tent throughout the nights.
Only the LCs electric decided to quit, Dr. Leatherman had to go to work with chicken wire and a lot of duct tape.
Via Dodoma (probably the only capital in the world you enter/exit via a potholed dirt-road) to Babati. It’s a better drive than expected (as you can often tackle the washboard on the higher harmonics), zero-to-little traffic, sparsely inhabited countryside and in parts beautiful surroundings too. No tourists whatsoever on the way (with the notable exception of two stalwart bicyclists on their way from London to Cape Town). In the mud-hut villages always the gleeful kids going berserk as you pass by: “Wazungu, Wazunguu!”
At the Kondoa rock paintings the 4WD gearbox started having quirks, so we phoned up Fortes for a car swap in Arusha: the next LC was at just 110 TKM and in much better shape.
On to Lake Natron, two Massai roadblocks (15 $ pP each, not negotiable), fun to watch their super-cool brethren at the bar of the Engaresero camp making their moves at a party of Brit girls on a tent-safari.
Too bad the volcano did not pop any smoke and it was not the season for the flamingos.
Via Wasso (and a colourful Massai market in a village to which people where walking from miles around) to Serengeti North, again almost eerily alone. We took the new northern pass over the escarpment, you realize here that the idea of a northern Serengeti Highway is plain folly (Tanzanians attribute this either to the election campaign or have conspiracy theories involving sinister Chinese machinations). At Klein’s Gate we were invited to buffalo-goulash by the rangers, as we were their first customers since days.
Booked Lobo camp, had the place for ourselves, late came a Belgian couple with their driver/guide. So the lions had three dome-tents to choose from. The roars at night were adrenalin-pumping close, next morning the nearest footprint we found was 7m from the tent.
Heavy rains made the game drives down to the Grumeti river very soggy but Serengeti look refreshingly green.
Finally, nearing Seronera the first safari vehicles started to pop up, changing soon into an avalanche. To minimize the time on the crowded and filthy default camps I recommend to prepare/take dinner and breakfast on the Sangore picnic site, which has stunning views over the plains.
From Lake Magadi it was driving south through a sea of Gnus, as we passed right through the migration with animals from horizon to horizon.
Despite the crowds and the money, Ngorongoro is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, not to be missed, even from hindsight. We were told at Simba camp that we don’t need a guide if we don’t want to – great, but next morning the guy at the gate was adamant: no guide, no crater, period. So back to the camp, picked up a guide, who turned out to be a very nice Massai, without him we would have missed the Cheetahs and the Rhino too.
After this Figure Eigth route through the country (appr. 3300km)it was back to Arusha and off to Zanzibar’s coral reefs.

Summary:
Highly recommended. As of today the southern circuit is a perfect balance of reclusion and accessibility for self drivers over the X-mas period.

Preparation:
J. Finkes Rough Guide is both perfect information and fun to read. LP and RKH are in dire need of a revision, the Bradt gets lost in tattle.
GPS/T4A makes life so much easier, at home and down under.

Booking:
Flights, vehicle and Zanzibar through Concept Reisen, Berlin. Friendly and very compentent.
Same for Fortes, although next time I would put an e.g. 100 TKM max. mileage upper limit for the Jeep in the contract. They have now Defenders with roof-top tents for self-drivers as well.

Dangers and Annoyances:
We did not encounter a real dangerous situation or did not at any moment feel unsafe (heard different stories from Dar though). People are more polite and less intrusive than in other parts of Africa. As so often in the third world, the driving style of the locals is the most dangerous thing, Tan-Zam-Highway action can be hair-raising in places.
We were stopped by the police (and yes, they have radars), but as my girlfriend does the tarmac stints, each time the magic of an attractive blonde did its wonder: no bribes, no inspections, just pleasant chit-chats.

Money:
ATMs even in smaller towns. When changing cash, take USD, the Euro is undervalued.
National Parks:
Amani, Mikumi, Udzungwa: Cash only,
Ruaha and Serengeti: MC, Visa
Ngorongoro: Cash only (at Naabi Hill Gate it’s the same guy and counter for both parks, so the difference makes one wonder)

We enjoyed it so much that we are planning for a return trip into the West (the three lakes, Katavi). Fortes can bring the car anywhere (say Mbeya) but at a hefty price tag.

Karibu !
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Letzte Änderung: 21 Jan 2011 15:55 von Pinback.
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25 Jan 2011 14:38 #171667
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  • Ruaha am 25 Jan 2011 14:38
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Hi pinback,
vielen Dank für den wertvollen Bericht! Gut zu hören, dass die Strecke über Babati nun besser befahrbar ist. Denn nach einem Besuch der südlichen Parks ist es schade 2x über morogoro zu fahren statt den circuit!
Wo habt ihr in Lushoto gecamped?
Am Mikumi fährt man häufig einfach vorbei um die südlichen Parks zu erreichen - du hast recht, dass ist schade! Wir bauen ihn nächstes Mal auch wieder ein!
Sind die Kondoa rock paintings ein Besuch wert? Habt ihr den campsite gesehen? Wir wollten da immer mal anhalten und übernachten, haben es aber nie geschafft.

vg
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26 Jan 2011 08:16 #171859
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  • Pinback am 19 Jan 2011 07:15
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Jambo Ruaha,

wir waren in Lushoto im Lawns, bei Tony the crazy Greek. Hat uns an der Bar mit tollen Stories unterhalten aber nicht mit seiner 45er auf die Geckos geschossen, was er wohl sonst manchmal tut.

Wenn man sich für afrikanische Geschichte interessiert sind die Rock Paintings definitiv einen Besuch wert, brauchen sich hinter den Drakensbergen nicht zu verstecken.
Wir haben dort nicht gezeltet (es soll zu Überfällen gekommen sein, haben auch kein Camp gesehen) sondern waren im New Planet Guesthouse. Im Hinterhof steht ein Mercedes SL Cabrio (V12 automatic) der
es unmöglich auf eigenen Rädern nach Kondoa geschafft haben kann. Der Häuptling soll damit die Dorfstrasse auf- und abgefahren sein...

gruss P
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27 Jan 2011 21:28 #172323
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Waaas? Den Tony gibt es noch?! Unglaublich! Ich war das letzte Mal als Kind in den 80ern im Lawns und da fand ich den verrückten Griechen immer irgendwie unheimlich - während meine Eltern sich köstlich mit ihm bis spät in die Nacht unterhielten. Wir waren IMMER die einzigen Gäste! Vor 4 Jahren haben wir am Irente View Point gezeltet. Leider hat es Tag und Nacht geschüttet und der owner nannte seinen Zeltplatz nur noch Irente Swimming Pool. Ein Zimmer im Lawns wäre bestimmt (auch aus nostalgischen Gründen) die bessere Alternative gewesen... Next time!

Das mit den Überfällen bei den Kondoa Rock Paintings hatte ich befürchtet. Dies war ein weiterer Grund für unsere Durchfahrt.
Coole Story mit dem Benz im Hinterhof! Ahhhh, Afrika ist immer wieder gut für grossartige Erlebnisse und Stories!

Übrigens: auf dem Campsite im Ruaha waren wir auch mehrere Tage lang ganz allein. Einen Abend kam eine Elefantenherde vom Fluss aus gemütlich direkt auf uns zu geschlendert. Als sie etwa 50m entfernt waren, verlagerten wir unser Dinner ins Auto. Mit winzigen Jungen zogen sie dann etwa 10m an uns vorbei! Scheinbar waren sie Nachts noch mal zurück gekommen um an der Akazie über unserem Dachzelt zu knabbern, denn um unser Auto herum wimmelte es vor frischen Abdrücken und Klößen...
Kaltes Bier gibt es übrigens in der Bar der Ranger am HQ. Ist die hässliche Lodge am Hang jetzt fertig? Wir waren so entsetzt über den Bau ... Vorallem, wer soll da übernachten? In den Ruaha fliegen meist nur Luxustouristen und angeblich soll die hässliche Lodge auch für Selbstversorger sein. Man darf gespannt sein!

VG
Ruaha
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